关于可持续时尚最常见的9个误解（下）

关于可持续时尚，社会各界一直有很多不同的声音。有人认为，购买打着环保旗号的品牌服装有助于保护环境，还有人认为，购买奢侈品牌而不买快时尚品牌的衣服可以防止工人被压榨。这些都是广为流传的误解。真相到底是什么呢？

关于可持续时尚最常见的9个误解（上）

MYTH: Brands that promote sustainability are sustainable
误解五：打着可持续旗号的品牌就是可持续的

TRUTH: "Sustainability" and other greenwashing buzzwords can be misused to attract consumers eager to reduce their environmental impact on the planet. Fashion search engine Lyst reported in 2019 that it saw a 75% increase in sustainable-related search terms compared with the previous year. "Objective criteria for rating sustainable fashion are missing," McKinsey's Saskia Hedrich told CNN.

事实：“可持续”和其他“漂绿”的流行词可能被误用于吸引那些迫切想减少对地球环境影响的顾客。时尚搜索引擎Lyst去年报告称，2019年可持续相关的搜索词条相比前一年增加了75%。麦肯锡咨询公司的萨斯基亚·海德里希告诉美国有线电视新闻网说：“可持续时尚的客观评价标准缺失了。”

MYTH: Most clothes can be recycled
误解六：大多数衣服都可以被回收

TRUTH: Clothing can be difficult to recycle, in part because of how it's made. For one, many fabrics are made from blends (of cotton and polyester, for instance), which must be separated if the material is to be turned into a new garment. In the US, less than 14% of clothing and shoes thrown away end up being recycled. But "recycling" is also a broad term that can be broken down into "downcycling" and "upcycling," and the difference matters. Downcycled garments often wind up as fibers used for home insulation or carpets. In Europe, less than 1% of collected clothing is actually recycled into new garments, according to Circle Economy.

事实：衣服回收起来可能会很难，一部分是因为衣服的制作方法。首先，许多面料都是棉涤或其他材质混纺，如果要用这些面料重新做成新衣就必须把各种材质分开。在美国，被扔掉的衣服鞋子最后只有不到14%被回收。但是“回收”从广义上可以被分为“下游循环”和“上游循环”，而两者的区别很重要。下游循环的衣服通常会成为用于家庭隔热材料或地毯的纤维。循环经济组织称，在欧洲，不到1%的收集到的衣服真的被回收并制成新衣服。

MYTH: It's not worth it to repair cheap clothes.
误解七：修补便宜衣服不值当

TRUTH: Mending a fast fashion item may mean spending what you paid for it, but keeping the same clothes in rotation is the best thing you can do to reduce your carbon footprint. You can also learn how to carry out small repairs at home to keep costs down, including replacing buttons, fixing broken zippers, resewing loose seams and hemming pants.

事实：修补一件快时尚衣服也许意味着修补花的钱和买衣服花的钱一样多，但是循环使用同一件衣服是减少碳足迹的最佳方法。你也可以学习如何在家小修小补以节省成本，包括换纽扣、修拉链、缝合开线处和给裤子卷边。

MYTH: Your online returns are resold to other customers
误解八：你网购退回的衣服又被卖给其他顾客

TRUTH: Your returns may end up incinerated or in landfills. It's often cheaper for companies to dispose of returns than to inspect and repackage them, and labels may be unwilling to donate the items for fear of cheapening their brand or damaging their exclusivity. A CBC report in 2019 highlighted this practice, pointing out that the volume of online returns has also increased by 95% over the past five years.

事实：你退回的衣服可能最后被焚烧或扔进了垃圾填埋场。公司检查和重新包装退回的衣服所花的费用通常比直接处理掉更高。品牌商也可能因担心拉低品牌价值或破坏独特性而不愿捐掉退回的衣服。加拿大广播公司2019年的一份报告凸显了这种行为，并指出网购退货量在过去五年增加了95%。

MYTH: Your clothes are from the country listed on the tag
误解九：你的衣服来自标签上印的生产国

TRUTH: Your clothes may be assembled in that country, but the tag can't reveal the complex chain of labor that went into making them. "Your label won't tell you where in the world the cotton was farmed, where the fiber was spun into a yarn, where the yarn was woven into a fabric (or) where it was dyed and printed," states Fashion Revolution's report, "How to Be a Fashion Revolutionary." "It won't tell you where the thread, dyes, zips, buttons, beading or other features came from." To encourage labels to be transparent about their supply chains, Fashion Revolution has been promoting the hashtag #whomademyclothes?, asking users to tag brands in selfies with clothing tags visible.

事实：你的衣服可能在该国进行缝合，但标签却无法透露参与制作衣服的复杂劳动链。时尚革命组织的报告《如何进行时尚革命》中写道：“你的衣服标签不会告诉你原料所用棉花是在世界的哪个地方种植的，纤维是在哪里被纺成纱线的，纱线是在哪里织成面料的，以及面料是在哪里染色或印花的。它不会告诉你纱线、染料、拉链、纽扣、珠饰或其他装饰物来自哪里。”为了鼓励在标签上让供应链透明化，时尚革命组织一直在宣传#谁做了我的衣服？这一话题标签，请用户在自拍上晒出衣服标签并标注出衣服品牌。